Melasma treatment in Calgary

Melasma diagnosisand treatment in Calgary.

Melasma is a chronic pigmentary disorder that produces symmetrical brown or grey-brown patches on the face. It is common, often hormonally driven, and readily worsened by the wrong treatment. At Rejuvenation Dermatology Calgary South, Dr. Paul Kuzel, a board-certified dermatologist, confirms the diagnosis and manages it with a combination of photoprotection, prescription therapy and carefully selected procedures.

14Years of training FRCPCRoyal College certified VPAlberta Society of Dermatologists
What it is

Overactive pigment cells, driven by hormones and light.

Melasma is not sun damage in the ordinary sense and it is not a scar. It is a condition in which the pigment-producing cells of the face become persistently overactive, and it behaves differently from other forms of hyperpigmentation.

Hormones and geneticsMelasma affects women far more often than men and frequently begins in pregnancy, on the contraceptive pill or on hormone therapy. It runs in families and is more common in people with medium to darker skin tones. Estrogen and progesterone sensitise the melanocytes to light.
Light and heatUltraviolet light is the main trigger, but visible light, including blue light from screens and daylight through glass, also stimulates melasma, which is why ordinary sunscreen is not enough. Heat from cooking, saunas and hot climates worsens it independently.
The vascular componentMelasma skin has more blood vessels than surrounding skin, and the vessels release factors that stimulate pigment production. This is why some patients see a reddish tone within the patches, and why treatments that address vessels can help.
The types

Depth of pigment decides the response to treatment.

Melasma is classified by where the excess pigment sits and by the pattern it forms on the face. Both are assessed at the first visit, because they predict how well and how quickly the condition will respond.

Superficial

Epidermal melasma

Pigment in the outer layer of the skin. Light to dark brown, with a well-defined border, and more visible under a Wood's lamp.

  • The most responsive type
  • Improves with topical treatment and superficial peels
Deep

Dermal melasma

Pigment deposited in the dermis, below the reach of most topical agents. Blue-grey or ashen in colour, with a less distinct edge.

  • Slower and less complete to respond
  • Requires oral therapy and carefully selected laser in addition to topicals
Most common

Mixed melasma

Pigment at both levels, which is the pattern most patients have. Dark brown with some grey. Responds partially to topical treatment, with the deeper component persisting.

  • Treated with a combination approach from the outset
Distribution

Centrofacial, malar and mandibular

Centrofacial melasma affects the forehead, nose, upper lip and chin. Malar melasma is confined to the cheeks. Mandibular melasma sits along the jawline and is more often associated with long-term sun exposure in older patients.

Why a dermatologist

Melasma is easily worsened by the wrong treatment.

More patients present with melasma that has been aggravated by treatment than with melasma that has never been treated. Aggressive lasers, intense pulsed light and irritating products all darken it. The first job is to establish the diagnosis; the second is to do no harm.

DiagnosisPost-inflammatory hyperpigmentation, solar lentigines, drug-induced pigmentation, acquired dermal melanocytosis and exogenous ochronosis from hydroquinone overuse all resemble melasma and are treated differently. Dr. Kuzel distinguishes them by examination and Wood's lamp, and by biopsy where needed.
Device selectionMost lasers and all intense pulsed light devices worsen melasma. The few that help, low-fluence picosecond laser and gentle non-ablative fractional resurfacing, are used at conservative settings after the skin has been prepared with topical therapy. The choice is made by a physician who understands the risk.
Prescription therapyThe most effective topical treatment for melasma is a prescription combination of hydroquinone, a retinoid and a mild corticosteroid, used in defined cycles. Oral tranexamic acid is prescribed for resistant cases after screening. Neither is available without a physician.
CoverageMelasma is a cosmetic condition and its treatment is not covered by Alberta Health Care. No referral is required. Consultation and treatment fees are quoted when you book.
Triggers

Triggers, and Calgary's altitude.

Calgary sits at over a thousand metres, where ultraviolet intensity is higher than at sea level, and the winter sun reflects off snow. Melasma that improves through a Calgary winter is unusual, which is why photoprotection is year round.

What worsens melasma

  • Sun exposure, including through windows and on overcast days
  • Visible and blue light, from daylight and from screens
  • Heat: cooking over a stove, saunas, hot yoga, hot climates
  • Pregnancy, the contraceptive pill and hormone replacement therapy
  • Thyroid disease, which is associated with melasma
  • Photosensitising medications, including some antibiotics and anti-seizure drugs
  • Irritating skincare, scrubs, waxing and friction on the face
  • Intense pulsed light and most lasers, particularly at high settings

Booking and fees

Melasma treatment is cosmetic and is not covered by Alberta Health Care. No referral is required. Book directly with Dr. Kuzel at Rejuvenation Dermatology Calgary South, or call (403) 286-6888 for consultation and treatment fees.

Where the diagnosis is uncertain, or where another skin condition is present, medical assessment may be covered with a referral. The team will advise when you call.

Treatment

Combination therapy, applied in sequence.

No single treatment clears melasma. Photoprotection and topical therapy form the base of every plan; oral therapy and procedures are added according to the depth and resistance of the pigment.

Every patient, every day

Photoprotection

A tinted mineral sunscreen containing iron oxides, SPF 50, applied every morning and reapplied through the day. The tint blocks visible light, which untinted sunscreen does not. A wide-brimmed hat outdoors. Avoidance of heat sources where practical.

  • Without this, every other treatment fails
  • Continued indefinitely, including through winter
First line

Topical treatment

Prescription triple combination cream (hydroquinone, tretinoin and a mild corticosteroid) used nightly for eight to twelve weeks, then cycled off to prevent side effects. Non-hydroquinone agents for maintenance and for pregnancy: azelaic acid, tranexamic acid, cysteamine, kojic acid and vitamin C.

  • Improvement begins at four to six weeks; full effect at twelve
  • Compounded to Dr. Kuzel's specification through a local pharmacy
Resistant or dermal melasma

Oral tranexamic acid

A low-dose oral course, typically three to six months, that reduces pigment production and the vascular component of melasma. Effective for melasma that has not responded to topical therapy, and for mixed and dermal types.

  • Screening for clotting risk before prescribing
  • Used alongside, not instead of, topical treatment and sun protection
Adjunct

Chemical peels

Superficial peels, glycolic or a light Jessner formulation, at conservative strengths, spaced two to four weeks apart. They speed the removal of epidermal pigment and improve the penetration of topical agents. Deep peels are avoided because they provoke rebound pigmentation.

Chemical peels
Selected cases

Laser and light

Low-fluence picosecond laser (PicoWay) fragments pigment with minimal heat and is the safest laser for melasma. Clear + Brilliant provides gentle fractional resurfacing that improves surface pigment and skin quality. Both are used after topical preparation, at conservative settings, with maintenance to follow. Intense pulsed light and ablative lasers are not used for melasma.

PicoWay Clear + Brilliant
Indefinite

Maintenance

Melasma recurs when treatment stops. After clearance, a non-hydroquinone topical is continued nightly, hydroquinone is reintroduced in short cycles if pigment returns, and photoprotection continues without interruption. Review before each summer.

Melasma treatments
Your visit

Diagnosis, classification and a staged plan.

The first visit confirms that the pigment is melasma, establishes its depth and pattern, and sets the base of the plan. Procedures are added at follow-up once the skin is prepared.

HistoryOnset, relationship to pregnancy or hormonal medication, sun and heat exposure, previous treatments, and thyroid or other health conditions.
ExaminationThe face under normal light and Wood's lamp to classify depth and pattern. Baseline photographs.
Base planPhotoprotection and prescription topical treatment, with a written schedule for cycling.
ReviewAt eight to twelve weeks. Response is compared to baseline photographs. Oral therapy or procedures added if needed.
MaintenanceOnce clear, a maintenance regimen is set and reviewed seasonally.
What to expect

Expected outcomes.

Melasma is controlled rather than cured. With strict photoprotection and prescription topical therapy, most patients see substantial lightening within twelve weeks, and epidermal melasma may clear almost completely. Mixed and dermal melasma improve more slowly and less completely, and usually require oral therapy or laser in addition.

Recurrence is expected if maintenance stops or sun protection lapses, and pregnancy or hormonal medication can bring it back. The plan therefore includes maintenance from the outset, and the treatments are chosen so that they can be repeated safely over years.

Improvement is judged against baseline photographs rather than memory, because melasma changes gradually and seasonal variation is large.

SPF 50Tinted, daily, year round 8 to 12Weeks to assess topical response 1Physician managing the plan
Questions

Questions about melasma, answered.

Is melasma permanent?

Melasma is chronic, meaning the tendency persists, but the pigment itself can be cleared or substantially reduced with treatment. Maintaining the result requires ongoing sun protection and periodic topical therapy. Melasma that began in pregnancy sometimes fades on its own within a year of delivery, but often persists.

Is melasma treatment covered by Alberta Health Care?

No. Melasma is a cosmetic condition, and consultation and treatment are private. No referral is required. Fees are quoted when you book. Where the diagnosis is uncertain, medical assessment may be covered with a referral.

Is hydroquinone safe?

Yes, when prescribed and used in cycles. Hydroquinone is the most effective topical agent for melasma and has been used for decades. Continuous use for many months at high concentrations can cause a paradoxical grey-blue darkening called ochronosis, which is why it is prescribed for defined periods and alternated with non-hydroquinone agents. It is not used in pregnancy.

Can laser cure melasma?

No, and most lasers make it worse. Low-fluence picosecond laser and gentle non-ablative fractional treatment can reduce pigment when used conservatively after topical preparation, and they are part of the plan for resistant melasma. Intense pulsed light and ablative lasers are not used. Laser without ongoing topical therapy and sun protection leads to rebound.

Does sunscreen matter in a Calgary winter?

Yes. Ultraviolet intensity at Calgary's altitude is high year round, snow reflects it, and visible light through windows and from screens stimulates melasma regardless of season. A tinted mineral sunscreen every day, including indoors, is the foundation of treatment.

Which treatments are safe in pregnancy?

Tinted mineral sunscreen, azelaic acid, vitamin C and, with caution, topical tranexamic acid. Hydroquinone, retinoids and oral tranexamic acid are avoided in pregnancy and breastfeeding. Active treatment is usually deferred until after delivery, with photoprotection maintained throughout.

Why did my melasma come back?

Usually because sun protection lapsed, maintenance therapy stopped, or a hormonal trigger returned. Occasionally because a treatment elsewhere, such as intense pulsed light, provoked a rebound. The maintenance plan is designed to prevent this, and recurrences respond to a short cycle of active treatment.

Does melasma affect men?

Yes, though far less often. Roughly one in ten patients with melasma is male. Sun exposure, family history and certain medications are the usual factors. Treatment is the same.

How is melasma different from sun spots?

Solar lentigines, or sun spots, are discrete, well-defined spots caused by cumulative sun damage, and they respond well to laser. Melasma forms larger, symmetrical, blotchy patches, is hormonally influenced, and worsens with most lasers. Distinguishing the two is the reason to see a dermatologist before any pigment treatment.

Who provides the care?

Dr. Paul Kuzel, MD FRCPC, a board-certified dermatologist and the founder and Medical Director of Rejuvenation Dermatology Calgary South. He sees patients in English and Czech.

Begin here

Book a consultation.

Book directly with Dr. Kuzel. No referral is required.

Rejuvenation Dermatology Calgary South
10201 Southport Rd SW #102
Calgary, AB T2W 4X9
Two blocks west of the Delta Hotel

(403) 286-6888
Referrals by fax: (403) 225-2914

Open seven days a week, with early mornings and evenings on weekdays.

Contact Rejuvenation Dermatology

Take the first step toward achieving healthy, radiant, and flawless skin. Contact Rejuvenation Medical Aesthetics today to schedule your personalized consultation and explore the advanced treatments tailored to your unique needs.